In 2014 I became interested in watches and their technology, and in 2015 my first “real” watch found its way to me. It was a NOMOS – not the best-known model Tangente, but the automatic version Tangomat. I have now owned and worn that watch for ten years. So it’s time to look back on this decade with the Tangomat, to dig up the best memories, but also to discuss negative aspects of this model by the German flagship brand.
My First “Real” Watch – Nomos Tangomat Ref. 601
The minimalist, Bauhaus-inspired designs, the history of the relatively new brand (founded in 1990), and of course the high level of vertical integration of the movements brought NOMOS Glashütte into my focus early on. At that time, in 2014, the NOMOS world still looked very different: The company had already begun to make itself independent of large suppliers with the “Swing System” (its own escapement assembly), but the brand’s calibers were still largely based on historical designs. That didn’t change until NOMOS introduced Neomatik plants in 2015.
I say “largely” because the NOMOS Epsilon movement used in the Tangomat was already a movement with a lot of in-house work. The base caliber, which is a modified replica of the hand-wound ETA Peseux 7001 movement and is used in its classic, manual version in the Tangente, was converted into an automatic movement for the Tangomat. If you would like to learn more about the history of NOMOS calibers and their details, you can take a look at this article of mine. Without going into further detail here: The Epsilon caliber is a visually very pleasing movement that boasts all the best Glashütte features such as a decorated three-quarter plate, Glashütte stopwork, and Glashütte sunburst finish. From the front, the Tangomat is almost indistinguishable from the Tangente. If you compare the Tangente 38 with the Tangomat, which is just over 38 mm in diameter, you will notice the additional height of the Tangomat. The latter has a height of 8.3 mm, making it around 1.5 mm higher than the Tangente. That doesn’t sound like much, but it’s enough to make it look cylindrical rather than slim and elegant like the Tangente. On the other hand, the reference 601 is the most minimalist, understated version of the Tangomat, which was and is also available with a date or as a GMT model. In any case, my 2015 self was convinced that it should be exactly this NOMOS. Looking back – with countless other well-known and lesser-known brands in mind – would I make a different decision? Possibly. Am I still happy with the choice I made back then? Absolutely! And you can find out why this is the case in my report below.
Ten years with the NOMOS Tangomat
NOMOS Tangomat, pictures: NOMOS I think I speak for most of us when I say that you take special care of your first mechanical watch in the beginning, until you get used to it – just as you did with brand-new toys as a child. Despite wearing it almost every day – I didn’t own any other watches at the time – the Tangomat survived my daily routine with flying colors, perhaps also thanks to that initial caution. In fact, to date, there has not been a single technical problem with the watch – no external damage, no problems with accuracy. Because of this, I must confess at this point, I have not had the watch serviced to this day. Although its wrist time has steadily decreased over the years as other watches have found their way into my collection, that is still remarkable mileage. Without having measured meticulously, I can also say that even the accuracy is not noticeable in a negative way. If anyone from NOMOS is reading this: Good work with the Epsilon caliber! I hope you will forgive me for waiting until the watch actually shows abnormalities before I send it in for servicing. This was also the advice that the senior manager of the store gave me after my purchase: “The watch will tell you when it needs maintenance.” I’ve done the same with all my mechanical watches ever since. Brands such as Rolex and Oris now officially promote service intervals of ten years, which was unheard of just a few years ago – even though it would have sufficed for a large number of watches back then as well. To add some variety, after a few years I got a canvas strap for the Tangomat, which is the main strap I wear it on at the moment. Fascinatingly, even the original horse leather strap made of Shell Cordovan is still in good condition and theoretically still usable. And the case? Despite the polishing on all sides, it has not become unsightly after ten years. Of course, there are some scratches, both small and large. But anyone who loves watches and enjoys wearing them should stand by a scratch. One day I will probably have the Tangomat polished, but who knows when that will be.
What Bothers Me About the Tangomat
What is immediately noticeable when wearing a Tangomat for the first time is that it is extremely loud. And I don’t mean the ticking noise, but the running noise of the rotor and a rattling noise when the watch is shaken or tapped. Search the Internet for “Tangomat noise” or “Tangomat rattles” – you’ll find plenty of unsettled buyers. I remember asking about these noises at the NOMOS booth at my first watch fair and even contacting NOMOS customer service, where my concerns were alleviated. The noises are simply due to the design of the movement combined with the acoustic properties of the case and crystal. It may come as a shock at first, but it does not detract from the reliability of the watch. Nevertheless, this peculiarity should be known and I assume that the current variant of the Tangomat DUW 5001 – essentially the Epsilon from before but with an in-house swing system – is not significantly different. I also want to mention that in the first year of ownership, I was frustrated by a blemish or machining mark on the ratchet wheel of the movement, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. I had this repaired by NOMOS during the warranty period. Today, a few watches later, I would no longer get upset about such little things. Imperfections are not uncommon across all sectors, with a few exceptions. I have learned not to expect absolute perfection. Those who do spend more time with customer service and waiting than wearing and enjoying their watch.
What I Love About the Tangomat
The short answer would be: almost everything! At just over 38 mm, the dimensions were and are absolutely perfect – not too big, not too small. Not much needs to be said about the historic Bauhaus design of Tangente and similar models. It is timeless and uncluttered. I like the beautiful, attractively finished movement more and more as time goes on. My initial disappointment at having just “missed” the Neomatik movements has given way to the realization that the NOMOS Epsilon is the much nicer caliber. The edges of the casing are, to this day, phenomenal to the touch. They are very sharp, but not razor sharp – just as they should be.
Don’t misinterpret how little I say about the positive aspects compared to the negative ones: Although I didn’t want to withhold them from you, the negative aspects of the Tangomat hardly matter to me. I am still delighted with this watch and am glad that it was one of my first steps into this hobby. It remains to be seen how long it will last until its first, well-deserved servicing.
